
Modern Apizza has been a New Haven institution since 1934, serving some of the city’s most beloved pies from its long brick building on State Street. Originally called State Street Apizza, the restaurant changed its name in the 1940s and has remained a cornerstone of New Haven’s “holy trinity” of apizza joints alongside Frank Pepe’s and Sally’s. Unlike its counterparts, which use coal-fired ovens, Modern bakes its pizzas in an oil-fired brick oven that reaches scorching temperatures and produces the same signature char and chewy crust that define New Haven–style apizza.

The restaurant’s dough is made from a long-fermented starter that gives each pie a tangy depth, while the sauce is crafted from hand-crushed Italian tomatoes and finished with a dusting of Pecorino Romano. While Modern respects the traditional simplicity of apizza, it also embraces variety. Its menu features dozens of combinations, from minimalist tomato pies to fully loaded options like the “Italian Bomb,” piled high with bacon, sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, onions, and peppers. The balance of old-school technique and generous toppings has helped Modern build a fiercely loyal following.

Inside, the dining room has a comfortable, no-frills charm -- red booths and checkerboard floors. A typical Modern pie starts with a base of hand-crushed Italian plum tomatoes seasoned simply with salt and oregano. Unlike the heavy cheese coverage found on most American pizzas, Modern’s default “mozz” pie uses just enough whole-milk mozzarella to complement the sauce rather than smother it, with a final dusting of sharp Pecorino Romano for extra bite. The balance of sweet tomato, salty cheese, and smoky crust is delish.

It’s baked directly on the hot brick floor of an oil-fired oven, which reaches well over 600 degrees and creates the hallmark blistered crust that’s chewy in the center and crunchy at the rim. This pizza has depth: the sauce caramelizes slightly around the edges, the cheese bubbles and browns, and the char adds complexity without bitterness. That's why in 2023, Pizza Today named it Pizzeria of the Year.

Grade: A